Saturday, July 17, 2010

L'enfer, c'est les autres.

"Hell is other people." A famous quote from No Exit ("Huis Clos") by Jean-Paul Sartre, which I just got back from seeing. Excellently done, and a great drama. I understood enough of it, I think. Thankfully I saw it at home once in high school, so I could remember some things. But though this quote sometimes sums up exactly how I feel about the world, today that was not the case. It was a really great day and I took tons of pictures!

We started off the day with our visit to Arles. First, we went to a museum of Roman artifacts, which had some cool stuff, especially models of what the city was like during the Roman empire. Apparently it was quite an important town, commercially, because it is right on the Rhone river (like Avignon). The Romans built a huge arena there, which was used for fights between men and wild animals, the occasional gladiator battle, and also more folk-type events. Today they use it for bullfights. But the coolest thing I learned at the museum this morning was what became of the arena during the Middle Ages: the town was invaded by barbaric tribes after the empire fell, and the majority of the population was killed. So the remaining citizens of Arles moved inside the walls of the arena, as it was better constructed than their own city walls and was the only thing that could keep the barbarians out. So within the arena they built houses and watchtowers and everything, and lived there for many years--click here to see an illustration. Pretty cool stuff.

After the trip to the museum we visited the arena itself. Crazy to think this entire structure was built without mortar, and has seen so much history. So our prof gave us a little historical background on the arena, and I admit I drifted a little, as I was starting to get hungry. Thankfully our tour was quick and then we were free to eat lunch. On Saturdays in Arles there's a big open air market, and that is where we went to find food. So many delicious things, so little time! I got some chevre (goat cheese), a white peach, and this tomato-y thing that's really hard to describe. I also got a mille feuille, which involves many layered sheets of pastry and a lot of custard. So I loved it all, needless to say.

After lunch we wandered a bit, eventually coming to rest by the obelisk in the main square. Soon everyone had gathered and we had a little tour of the Cathedrale St. Trophime and the accompanying cloister. Then before we know it, it's already 4pm and time to catch a train back. I made some plans with my friends to meet later in the evening, then went home and had a quick nap. Four of the girls and I had dinner tonight in a very artsy district of town, Rue des Teinturiers. So cute! We found a little restaurant called Intramuros, and we were at the table for the standard 2 hours, at least. Very nice. A bottle of white wine, some bread, eggplant puree, salad, steak, ratatouille, pommes frites, and...the BEST chocolate dessert I may have ever had. Ever. Which is saying something. It didn't look like much, but when I tasted it...heaven. As if chocolate mousse and fudge made a beautiful, beautiful baby together. It was so good. I almost licked my plate clean.

One of the main marketing ploys used by all the theatre companies here is to have their actors walk around in costume handing out little postcards and talking to people. Even if you're sitting at a restaurant, like we were tonight, they come right up and talk to you. Some fairly throw their postcard at you, while some stop and talk for several minutes. The latter is more prevalent in the artsy district. We had one man in particular who stopped and talked for at least 5 minutes. Very very sweet old man, clearly full of passion for the story of the play. He was pleased that we spoke French "so well," and he definitely convinced us to come see his show.

Since dinner took so long (as it usually does), we literally had to power-walk/run to the other side of town to make the show on time. As it was, we were about 5 minutes late. I did have to make a quick stop along the way to snap a photo of a man in a bear costume. This town is bizarre during Festival season, that's for sure. But as I mentioned, the show was quite good. After it was over, I walked with the others up to the train station to catch a taxi home. On the walk there I witnessed something the likes of which I have never seen and hope to never see ever again: a three-piece Canadian tuxedo. For those of you unfamiliar with the term "Canadian tuxedo," it's when someone wears jeans and a denim jacket that are of the same or similar wash, resulting in a heinous denim suit-like effect. Well, this lady one-upped everyone else I've ever seen by adding a denim VEST to the mix. It was truly hideous. And they say all Frenchwomen are stylish. Ha.

Anyhow, that basically sums up my day. Tomorrow is devoted to sleep and homework!

Love and miss you all,
Natalie

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